July 2004. I had been alerted to the alarming wave of HIV/AIDS infections across Papua New Guinea by my friend Bob Howarth who was CEO of the Post-Courier newspaper. Some regional AIDS experts had said that PNG had lost control of the disease. I traveled there with Journalist John Wright and followed the story from the brothels and hospitals in Port Moresby to the marihuana plantations outside Mt. Hagan in the Highlands.